Tips From A Loyal Customer On Installing Your Home Security Alarm

These tips and tricks are for the following security systems but can probably be used for other D.I.Y security alarms. Enjoy!

• $99 Basic Security System
• $199 Gold Series Home Security Solution Package
• $249 Platinum Series Home Security Solution Package

1. As others have said, it is comprehensive and everything you need to do the install is included in the box (except the screwdriver..) Each window/door sensor can be installed with the double sided tape however I recommend that you take the time to install these with the screws that are included in the box. I made a mistake of just using the tape and one hot humid summer day the magnetic contact fell off and set the alarm off. Since then, I screwed each contact in for a more permanent solution. If you feel compelled to just use the double sided tape, make sure you clean the surface with alcohol prior. That was something I did not do as well.

2. Buy alkaline batteries. The batteries have a very long lifespan in the sensors. Over the years that we have had the system, we have only had to replace our keychain remote batteries. All the sensor batteries are still holding strong. The technology that is being used must operate on very little voltage…

3. When you are first “registering” your sensors with the console, be sure to turn the motion sensors to face the wall. Otherwise, you will find that your motion sensor will be registered in multiple zones as it detects you walking around the house setting all the other sensors.

4. Another sensor suggestion during the registration process is that you be careful not to close the window/door sensor lid too hard. It has a test button under the lid and if you press too hard you may register the sensor twice.

5. If you have a lot of windows, I recommend that you utilize a motion sensor in that area as opposed to putting a sensor on each window. It will save you lots of time (and sensors) and provide comprehensive coverage.

6. Get an extra siren or two.. You can add as many sirens as you have electrical outlets but if you really want to scare someone away, stock up on the sirens and put them around the house. The louder the better, right?

7. The motion sensor is not pet sensitive but I fixed that real quick. I took a piece of medical tape (white color matched the sensor) and put it across the bottom of the IR sensor. It simply eliminated the sensor from detecting anything under 3 ft tall. Our dog is small so it worked for us. If your dog is taller than 3 ft then you probably don’t need a security system…

8. I would set all of the window/door sensors and remotes to arm instantly (min). If you have any of them set to (max), the console will ding for 30-60 seconds before arming. It was actually quite annoying. With everything set to arm/disarm instantly you get immediate gratification and can forgo the countdown. We just arm and disarm our alarm after we leave or before we enter the house with our keychain remote.

9. When you arm the alarm, the motion sensors will not activate until after 60 seconds of no movement being detected. This allows time for you to get out of the house. It took me a while to figure this out as I armed the system and jumped up and down waiting for them to be triggered.

10. Try to centrally locate your console in your house (especially if your house is huge). Ours is not centrally located and we have not had any issues with sensor or remote control range but you never know. Actually, we have tried turning our alarm off from the street before hitting our driveway and it worked.

SmartSecurityPeople.com appreciates receiving these installation tips from our customers. We are pleased to share them with you. If you have additional tips that you think may be helpful for others, please forward them onto us via our Contact Page.

This article is the last in a series devoted to helping the common person install a DIY Self-Monitored Home Security Alarm. The instructions that we provide throughout this series of articles will be focused on the security systems listed below but you will find that our tips and tricks can be utilized with just about any DIY Home Security Alarm available on the market. In the end, it really does not matter where or what kind of security alarm that you get, the important thing is that you get a security system that you feel comfortable with and that it provides you with the peace of mind that you are seeking.

• $99 Basic Security System
• $199 Gold Series Home Security Solution Package
• $249 Platinum Series Home Security Solution Package

The Security Console - “The Brain of your System”

The security console is the backbone of your entire security system. Without the security console, you do not have a security system. For this reason, it is crucial that you install and program your security console with great accuracy. It is also important for you to know how it works and functions. The good news is that once you have invested the initial set-up time with your alarm, you should be able to experience years of problem free functionality from your security system.

This article is dedicated to walking you through the proper steps to set-up your security console. In addition, as we move along through the set-up process, we will describe all the features associated with the security console. So.. here we go!!

Installation of the Security Console

You will want to find a good location in your home for your security console. It is designed to be able to sit on a counter top, shelf, or maybe at the bottom of an end table. However, we do have some customers that prefer to hang them on the wall and we have special bracket made just for that. The location you choose should be centrally located in your home and have access to a standard electrical outlet. If you are using the auto-dial calling feature of your alarm, you will want it to have easy access to a standard telephone line as well.

The following is a step-by-step process for programming your Security Console. These steps have been tested again and again and we have found that using the following sequence during set-up will insure that you don’t have to hassle with your alarm ever again. So.. don’t skip any of the steps and make sure you follow them in entirety.

1. Go around your home and install the batteries in all of your window and door sensors and also in your motion sensors. (For best performance, make sure you use alkaline batteries. We have found that alkaline batteries last for at least 5 years in the sensors before needing replacement)
2. Push the test button on each sensor for 2 seconds. When you lift off of the button the sensor light should flash a couple of times. (This resets the sensors and gets them primed and ready for programming to your security console)
3. Turn your motion sensors to face the wall and make sure all windows and doors are shut. (This is a critical step because it will keep you from registering a single sensor onto multiple zones.)
4. Gather all of your remotes and have them located by the security console and ready for programming.
5. Plug your security console in and flip the switch to INSTALL
6. Your alarm is equipped with a 9 volt battery back-up system. This back-up battery can provide limited operation of your security system for about twelve hours in case of a power outage. Once you have your alarm plugged in and ready for programming you will want to install the back-up battery.
7. To register your sensors to the console you will need to go around and hit the test button on each window/door sensor and motion sensor. (You should hear only one ding per sensor - also you may want to write down which sensor is registered into which zone for future use)(Important- if you ever hear more than one ding for each sensor, you will need to RESET your console-See RESET INSTRUCTIONS BELOW).
8. To register your remotes you will need to hit the ARM button on each one (you should hear a single ding for each remote programmed)
9. Flip the console to RUN1 or RUN2. You should see the record light come on for a minute or so. This shows that the console is putting your settings to memory.

Ok.. Your alarm should be good to go at this point for basic functionality. If you want to program it to dial out when triggered, you can follow theses additional steps:

1. The auto-dialer can call up to 4 phone numbers. Most customers just put their cell phone number in all 4 slots but you can program it to call anyone that your prefer. It will call the first number and if no one answers or if it gets voice mail, it will move onto the next number and so forth.
2. You will want to turn the alarm to INSTALL
3. Press the PROG button and enter the first phone number that you want to be called in the event your alarm is triggered. (if the phone number is long distance, be sure to include a 1 and the area code with the phone number)
4. Press the MEM and press “1″ (This will store this number in the 1st memory location)
5. Press PROG, enter the second number (can be the same as the 1st one) and hit MEM and then “2″
6. Press PROG, enter the third number and hit MEM and then “3″
7. Press PROG, enter the fourth number and hit MEM and then “4″
8. Flip the switch to RUN1 or RUN2 and it will record to memory the information that you just entered(You can repeat the above process at anytime to change a phone number as well

Now we need to program a message into your security console so that it can play it whenever it reaches someone at any of the above phone numbers.

1. Flip the switch to INSTALL
2. Press the RECORD button (a light should turn on)
3. Speak clearly into the microphone with your message. (Most customers usually say the following: The alarm has been triggered at “your address” press zero to listen in..) You have up to 15 seconds of recording time so you will want to repeat this message as many times as you can during that 15 seconds. When the light on the console turns off that means that you are out of time.
4. Flip the switch to RUN1 or Run2 and now your message will be transferred to the memory of the security console and you are all set!

If you ever need to RESET your security console due to a programming snafu or just because you want to set something up differently, you can follow the following steps to accomplish this:

1. Turn motion sensors to face wall and make sure all doors and windows are shut.
2. Unplug the console and remove back-up battery for 30 seconds
3. Gather all your remotes and have them located by the console
4. Plug Console back in
5. Flip switch to INSTALL
6. Go around and hit the test button on each window/door sensor and motion sensor. (You should hear only one ding per sensor - also you may want to write down which sensor is registered into which zone for future use)(Important- if you ever hear more than one ding, you need to start over at step 2)
7. Hit the ARM button on each remote (you should hear a single ding for each remote)
8. Flip the Console to RUN1 or RUN2
9. You should be good to go and you can follow the steps above if you want to program the auto-dialer feature of your security system.

You may be asking yourself what the difference is between RUN1 and RUN2 on the security console. If you have it set to RUN1, everything operates as normal. If you have it set to RUN2, everything operates as normal with the exception that every time a window or door is opened, the security console will chime once to let you know. This is commonly referred to as a “babysitting feature”. Regardless of where you are in your home, you will know if someone comes in or leaves at anytime. Most of our clients like this feature but those with pets (or maybe kids as well) that constantly want to go outside, the chime tends to get annoying after a while.

ok..let’s summarize once again.. You have picked the alarm system that is right for you, you have successfully installed all of your Window/Door Sensors and your Motion Sensors, you now have your sirens in place, you know how to work your remotes and lamp modules and you have now installed the brain of your security system, otherwise known as the security console. YOU should feel very accomplished!

This brings our installation article series to an end. We hope that you find these installation articles helpful and informative. Should you have additional questions, please do not hesitate to contact us. If you have additional installation tips that you would like to share with others, please feel free to do so below in the comment section.

This article is the fifth in a series devoted to helping the common person install a DIY Self-Monitored Home Security Alarm. The instructions that we provide throughout this series of articles will be focused on the security systems listed below but you will find that our tips and tricks can be utilized with just about any DIY Home Security Alarm available on the market. In the end, it really does not matter where or what kind of security alarm that you get, the important thing is that you get a security system that you feel comfortable with and that it provides you with the peace of mind that you are seeking.

• $99 Basic Security System
• $199 Gold Series Home Security Solution Package
• $249 Platinum Series Home Security Solution Package

Remotes and Lamp Modules

With each of the security alarm packages that we offer, you will see that we provide not only Key Chain remotes but also a Master Security Control remote. These remotes are very useful in that they can turn your alarm off and on at the push of a button. The best part about these remotes is that you no longer have to remember any pin numbers or security codes to activate/deactivate your alarm. This feature is very handy because if you accidentally trigger your alarm, the stress of your alarm going off quickly renders your memory useless for remembering any codes. You can program up to 8 remotes for each security system.

In addition, all of our alarms include at least one lamp module. These lamp modules help to bring home automation functions to the lighting in your home. They can turn any standard incandescent light into a dimmable light and all at the push of a button.

The KeyChain Remote

The Key Chain remote is fairly small and does not weigh down your key chain even with the 2 AAA batteries installed. It measures at 2 1/2 inches long, an inch and a half wide and about half an inch thick. In our testing we have found the Key Chain remote to have about a 200 foot working radio frequency range. This means that as long as you are within a couple hundred feet of the main security console, it should have no problem communicating with your alarm. Most people just utilize the Key Chain remote after they have left their home or right before they are about to enter.  So..the 200 foot range should be more than enough for most.

The Key Chain remote features 4 buttons: ARM, DISARM, LIGHTS ON, LIGHTS OFF

• The ARM button does simply that, it arms your security system which causes the console to ding once and a light (connected to the lamp module and assigned to the same House Code as your security console and UNIT 1) to flash once.
• The DISARM button will deactivate your security alarm and will cause the console to ding twice as confirmation of the alarm be turned off.
• The LIGHTS ON button will turn on the same light mentioned above (connected to the lamp module and assigned to the same House Code as your security console and UNIT 1). This feature is sought after by many because it ensures that you will never have to enter a dark home again. By a simple push of the button, you can always have your entry way lit up before you enter.
• The LIGHTS OFF button is somewhat self-explanatory but it just turns off the same light that is turned on by the LIGHTS ON button.

If at anytime you find yourself in a panic situation and want to trigger your alarm, all you have to do is hit the ARM & DISARM buttons on the Key Chain Remote at the same time and it will trigger your alarm. The Key Chain remote also features a low-battery indicator light to notify you if the batteries are getting low.

The Master Security Remote

The Master Security Remote is about three times the size of the Key Chain Remote. This extra size is to be expected though since it is packed with a lot of features and is not intended to be strapped to your key chain! The purpose of this remote is to keep it somewhere in your house that is convenient for you. Some of our customers prefer to keep it in the living room while others have it located on their nightstand.

The Master Security Remote boasts a wireless range of 100 ft from the manufacturer. However, we have found it to work up to at least 150ft. It may work at greater distances but we have never had a need to test it further. It requires 4 AAA batteries to operate. It measures 4 1/2 inches by 2 3/4 inches and has a depth of about 3/4 of an inch.

The Master Security Remote has a lot more buttons and features than the Key Chain Remote. It has 9 rocker type buttons, a House Code dial and a Min/Max toggle switch.

• Starting from top to bottom, the first button is the PANIC button. If for some reason you need to trigger your alarm, you can push this button and it will set your siren off, the lights will start flashing, and the auto-dialer feature will begin calling to the preset phone numbers that you have registered in the console.
• The second button is the ARM HOME/DISARM button. This arms your alarm but only the window and door sensors. It does not activate the motion sensors (since you are supposed to be home and probably walking around your home).
• The next button is the ARM AWAY/DISARM button. This arms your alarm and all the sensors (motion sensors included).
• The SECURITY LIGHT button is used to control the lamp module that is set to the same house number and unit number as your security console. It can turn the light on and off at the push of a button.
• The next four buttons are used to control lamp modules in your home. These buttons turn any lights on and off that are connected to the corresponding lamp module.
• The last button is the DIMMING SWITCH. Any of the lights that you have plugged into a lamp module are now dimmable just by hitting this button up or down.
• The House Code Dial should be set to the same house code you have selected on your security console. This helps to make sure the security console and the remote control are in sync with each other when operating the home automation features (remote control lights).
• The MIN/MAX button allows the remote to set the alarm instantly (MIN) or after about 30 seconds (MAX). We encourage all of our customers to keep this set at MIN because if you set it to MAX, it will ding for 30 seconds before arming. If you are like us you would prefer the instant gratification of having your alarm armed right away as opposed to the 30 second delay.

The Lamp Module

The Lamp Module can turn any ordinary light into something extraordinary. It gives you the opportunity to control that light remotely from across the room and also makes it dimmable.  The Lamp Module works with incandescent lights and lamps (i.e. with a regular light bulb, not halogen or fluorescent). Plug the lamp into the Lamp Module, and plug the Lamp Module into any normal wall socket - it’s that easy! Ideal for controlling bedroom, living room, and family room lamps.

The Lamp Module receives it commands over the existing wiring in your home. When you hit the button on your remote, it send a wireless signal to your Security Console and then the Console sends an instructional signal over your electrical wiring to the Lamp module. With your remote you have the ability to turn lights on and off and dim them at the push of a button.

The Lamp Module has 2 dials on it. One is the Unit Code and the other is the House Code. The House Code(A-P) will need to match the House Code that you have set on your Security Console and Master Security Remote. The Unit Code should probably be set to 1-4. If you set it to 1, that means that this light can be turned on and off with the Key Chain remote and the Security Light button on the Master Security Remote. If you set it to 2,3, or 4, it can be controlled by the extra light buttons on the Master Security Remote.

The Lamp Module is about 2 3/4 of an inch tall, 2 1/8 inches wide, and 1 1/4 inch deep. It can plug into any standard electrical outlet and is rated to handle incandescent lights up to 300 watts.

Tips & Tricks

Over the years we have done a number of installations and provided enough support for our customers to be able to pull together some of the “best practices” that are being utilized with different aspects of our security systems. the following represent a couple of the best practices adopted from our customers in regard to remotes and lamp modules.

• Key Chain Remote In The Garage: We have gotten this tip from quite a few of our customers. What they do is hide a Key Chain remote in the garage and only share that location with a few close family members or friends. Then they install an electric keypad garage door opener outside of their garage. They give these same close friends and family members the code to the opener. By doing this, they have set up a secure method to get friends and family members into their home without triggering the alarm. This saves them on passing Key Chain remotes out to everyone and it appears to be much more convenient.
• Alarm Set/Lamp Module Notification: (This is another garage tip!)As you learned above, you can set a lamp module so that it flashes a light every time you ARM your alarm. A good number of our customers say that they have set up a light in the garage with the lamp module so that before they back their car out they can hit the ARM button on the remote and if the light flashes, then they know that everything is “good-to-go”. If the light does not flash, then that means that they may have left a window or door open and they need to double check the house.

ok..let’s summarize once again.. You have picked the alarm system that is right for you, you have successfully installed all of your Window/Door Sensors and your Motion Sensors, you now have your sirens in place. you know how to work your remotes and lamp modules. So what is next you ask? Well, the next article in this series will be getting to the heart and brain of your security system… the Security Console! We will be covering the role of the Security Console but more importantly, we will discuss how you install it and tie it in with your other security components.

Anyway, we hope that you are finding these articles useful. We appreciate all of our readers at SmartSecurityPeople.com. If you have additional tips and tricks you would like to share, please feel free to do so by leaving a comment below!

This article is the fourth in a series devoted to helping the common person install a DIY Self-Monitored Home Security Alarm. The instructions that we provide throughout this series of articles will be focused on the security systems listed below but you will find that our tips and tricks can be utilized with just about any DIY Home Security Alarm available on the market. In the end, it really does not matter where or what kind of security alarm that you get, the important thing is that you get a security system that you feel comfortable with and that it provides you with the peace of mind that you are seeking.

• $99 Basic Security System
• $199 Gold Series Home Security Solution Package
• $249 Platinum Series Home Security Solution Package

SIRENS

Sirens can operate a number of different ways depending on the alarm system that you are utilizing. The most traditional of security systems include a single siren that is built into the security console while the more advanced ones provide the opportunity for multiple sirens with remote placement around your home or business.

When an alarm is triggered, the siren is activated and it should result in a large blaring sound that will scare or intimidate any potential intruder from breaking into your home. In addition, your siren should be loud enough to wake even the heaviest of sleepers when it is activated. If it is loud enough for a neighbor to hear then you really are in good shape with your siren set-up.

The siren is probably one of the most important components to your home security alarm. Without good siren coverage, your alarm will be mediocre in its results of deterring burglars from breaking into your home or business.

The good news about the security systems that we provide here at SmartSecurityPeople.com is that you can have as many sirens as you have electrical outlets. What this means is that you can have comprehensive siren coverage throughout your entire house, garage, pole-barn, tool shed, basement, etc… As long as electric is running to these places, you can quickly install a siren.

How Do They Work?

The security systems that we provide all have a siren built into the console. This works perfect for a small home or condo but for a larger residence you will want to make use of extra sirens. All of our security systems include at lest one external siren to compliment the built-in console siren.

The external sirens can be plugged into any standard electrical outlet around your home. When the security console is triggered, it will send a signal over your electrical wires that will activate any external siren plugged into your home wiring. For example, we recently installed a security system in a customer’s pole barn. They wanted to have sirens out in the barn but they also wanted a siren in their house so that they could be notified when the alarm was triggered (The pole barn was located about 100 feet off of the back of their house). So, we put a siren in their dining room and since the pole-barn used the same electrical supply, when the alarm was triggered, it activated the siren in the dining room of the house.

Where and How Do I Install Them?

It is surprisingly simple to install additional sirens. They will plug into any standard electrical outlet. What you want to do though is try to space them out around your home to provide excellent coverage. When we are installing these security systems, we typically install a siren in the hallway, one in the family room, one in the garage, and if it is a multiple story home, we try to make sure a siren is located on each level of the home (including basement).

The key is to install the siren anywhere that you think it will have the greatest impact if your home security alarm were to be triggered.

Any Tips and Tricks?

Of course, we always have great tips and tricks! It is not very common for home security alarms to have external sirens anymore. Our only guess for this change is that they are an expensive option and require additional wiring to operate. The sirens that we have can work outside if you have an electrical outlet on the exterior of your home. However, they are really designed for interior use so they may not provide consistent coverage for you if exposed to the elements over the years. So, we have had customers remedy this by getting a simple alarm horn/siren from Radio Shack and wiring it to the siren included with our security systems. They had a basic understanding of the circuitry in the siren to make this happen so it is not a tip or trick that we recommend for the average person but it certainly shows the creativity of some of our customers.

Visual Aids!

We know that you always enjoy seeing pictures, so we are happy to oblige. The following pictures show a couple of the sirens installed and ready to go when the alarm is triggered.

This is the loudest of sirens that we offer with our security packages. It is a Super PowerHorn siren. As you can see, it just plugs into an outlet and you can optionally screw it into place with the included hardware.

This is the Compact Powerhorn siren that comes with every security package that we offer. It is small in size but puts out some large sound. It also plugs into any standard outlet.

ok..let’s summarize once again.. You have picked the alarm system that is right for you, you have successfully installed all of your Window/Door Sensors and your Motion Sensors, you now have your sirens in place. So what is next you ask? Well, the next article in this series will be touching upon Lamp Modules and Remotes! They are certainly not the most exciting aspect of a home security alarm but they come in very handy and can be extremely useful!

Anyway, we hope that you are finding these articles useful. We appreciate all of our readers at SmartSecurityPeople.com. If you have additional tips and tricks you would like to share, please feel free to do so by leaving a comment below!

This article is the third of a series devoted to helping the common person install a DIY Self-Monitored Home Security Alarm. The instructions that we provide throughout this series of articles will be focused on the security systems listed below but you will find that our tips and tricks can be utilized with just about any DIY Home Security Alarm available on the market. In the end, it really does not matter where or what kind of security alarm that you get, the important thing is that you get a security system that you feel comfortable with and that it provides you with the peace of mind that you are seeking.

• $99 Basic Security System
• $199 Gold Series Home Security Solution Package
• $249 Platinum Series Home Security Solution Package

MOTION SENSORS

How Do They Work?

The Motion Sensors that you find with alarm systems today are much more technologically advanced than the motion sensors of old. In the past, motion sensors did just what they were intended to do.. detect motion. Some models were triggered by vibration and others by simple movement. As you can imagine, this type of sensor was not very reliable and probably quick to provide false alarms. The motion sensors you find today work off of infrared technology. Which means that they track motion by sensing heat movement. If a mass of heat moves within range of the sensor, it will be triggered. So, if a book were to fall off of a shelf, since it does not generate a heat trail, it would not trigger the new style of sensors (but it would be sure to set off the old style).

Motion sensors have a zone of reference that depicts the range and spectrum of the sensors. When you are installing your motion sensors, you will to know what the  zone of reference is for your sensor to better identify the best location for it to be installed. The motion sensor that you can find with our kits mentioned above has a fairly standard zone of reference. It can pick up movement up to 30ft to the front of it. It has a 90 degree range of horizontal coverage and a 30 degree range for vertical coverage. The following picture helps to demonstrate this better.

Where Do I Install Them?

Motion sensors are a wonderful compliment to any home security system. Some people even choose to protect their homes with nothing but motion sensors (However, SmartSecurityPeople.com recommends that you maintain window/door sensors on the most accessible entry points to your home). When you are installing them in your home or business setting, you will want to find a place in which they will be the most effective. Usually, this can be in a stairwell, at the end of a hallway, or in the corner of a large open room. Basically, you want to install them anywhere that would be a normal traffic pattern for people moving through your house.

In addition, the nice thing about motion sensors is that you can protect an entire room with just one of them. So, if you have a room that has a lot of windows and doors, you may want to consider installing a motion sensor and only a few window/door sensors. Hopefully this gives you some ideas to work with regarding location of your motion sensors.

How Do I Install Them?

All of our motion sensors (like many others out there) operate wirelessly using encrypted radio frequency. So you don’t have to worry about running wires all over your house like you did with the older versions. Our motion sensors need 4AA batteries to operate and we encourage you to use alkaline batteries. Alkaline batteries are recommended for any technologically advanced electrical device so your motion sensors definitely would benefit from them. We estimate that you will get at least 5 years of use from one round of alkaline batteries in your motion sensor.

It is important that your motion sensors do not have an obstructed view of sight. They should not be installed behind large pieces of furniture, flower arrangements, or in areas that inhibit their zone of reference. Over the years we have found that motion sensors work best when placed in a corner of a room. We also recommend that you install them at about 7-8 ft from the floor (as close to the ceiling as possible). This will allow the motion to have greater range for sensing movement. If you have to use a dining room chair to install them, then you are at the right height. If you are going for the ladder in your garage, you may be installing them too high.

The motion sensors include a tilt/swivel mounting bracket. So, once you have them installed, you can adjust them up and down and side to side to see what position works best for the area you are trying to provide coverage. If you are putting the motion sensor at the top of a staircase, you will definitely want to point it down so that it picks up any movement at the bottom of the stairs.

Any Tips and Tricks?

We wouldn’t be very Smart Security People if we didn’t have a tip or trick for our readers now would we? Motion sensors provide pretty basic operation so there really isn’t anything too amazing or brain rattling that we can share with you. However, over the years we have had numerous inquiries from our readers about pet immune motion sensors. The following information hopefully helps to clarify how you can make any standard motion sensor into a pet immune motion sensor for free (or almost free).

We already discussed how motion sensors have a zone of reference and we supplied you with the sample chart above going into greater detail. So what does all that mean? Well, this information helps up to figure out how we can make the best use of your motion sensor while avoiding false alarms from “Fido”.  You have 2 solutions: You can either tilt your motion sensor up or you can put a piece of medical tape on the bottom half of the sensor. (We suggest medical tape only because it will blend in better with the color of your sensor.) The ultimate effect of either of these solutions is that you now have a motion sensor that only detects movement that occurs higher than 3 feet off of the floor. If your dog is taller than 3 feet, then you probably don’t need a security system! Keep in mind though, if your potential robbers are vertically challenged (short) they could avoid this set-up as well.

The question that always comes to mind: Is this how other pet-immune motion sensors work? The answer is most probably no. The pet-immune motions sensors of today have circuitry built into them that only cause the alarm to be triggered if a large mass of movement is detected (usually anything under 40 lbs is ok). That is how these sensors differentiate between human movement and pet movement. If the sensor detects movement by an object larger than 40 lbs, it will trigger the alarm. Under 40lbs, no alarm.  As long as you are not being robbed by anorexic robbers or kindergartners, you should be just fine with a standard pet-immune motion sensor.

Visual Aids!

We know you like pictures, so we are always glad to please our reader base by providing you with plenty of them! The following are a few pictures of motion sensors in action from different installations over the years. Enjoy!

Motion Sensor On Swivel Tilt Wall Mount

Straight On View Of Motion Sensor

Motion Sensor Pointing Down Stairwell

ok..let’s summarize once again.. You have picked the alarm system that is right for you and now you have successfully installed all of your Window/Door Sensors and your Motion Sensors. So what is next you ask? Well, the next article in this series will be touching upon Sirens! What would an alarm be without a siren..um I guess it would be a silent alarm.

Anyway, we hope that you are finding these articles useful. We appreciate all of our readers at SmartSecurityPeople.com. If you have additional tips and tricks you would like to share, please feel free to do so by leaving a comment below!

This article is the second of a series devoted to helping the common person install a DIY Self-Monitored Home Security Alarm. The instructions that we provide throughout this series of articles will be focused on the security systems listed below but you will find that our tips and tricks can be utilized with just about any DIY Home Security Alarm available on the market. In the end, it really does not matter where or what kind of security alarm that you get, the important thing is that you get a security system that you feel comfortable with and that it provides you with the peace of mind that you are seeking.

• $99 Basic Security System
• $199 Gold Series Home Security Solution Package
• $249 Platinum Series Home Security Solution Package

Window & Door Sensors

How They Work

Before we being the installation process it is probably best if we give you a basic understanding of how the window/door sensors operate.

Most window/door sensors consist of two parts. The first part is the “brain” of the sensor and it is a small box-like device that is typically no larger than a standard bar of soap. In the olden days, the sensor was usually hard wired to a main security console located in a remote part of the house or business. However, with technological advances, most window/door sensors eliminate the need for wiring all over your home and now communicate via encrypted radio frequency with the security console. This makes installation so much easier for the Do-It-Yourselfer. The wireless window/door sensor operates off of 2 AA batteries. If you utilize an alkaline battery you can be assured that your sensor will operate flawlessly for 5+ years before needing to replace the batteries. It is amazing how very little voltage is required for these sensors.

The second part of the sensor is the pair of magnetic contacts. These are very small in size but play a crucial part in the proper operation of your sensor. One side of the contact houses a magnet and the other side of the contact holds a small diode like instrument. When the contacts are next to each other, the magnet causes the diode to remain in a closed state allowing a small current to be circulated from the brain of the sensor through the contact and back to the sensor. Once themagnet moves away from the diode, the circuit opens and the sensor is triggered.

Ok… now that you know how the window/door sensors work, let’s look at how to install them.

Installation

By this point you have already decided which doors and windows you want to secure with a sensor. Installation of the sensors can be as difficult or easy as you want it to be. If you don’t care about aesthetics and just want the sensor to work you can probably slap them up with the included double sided tape and call it a day. However, if you are one of those meticulous types and want everything to be perfect with not only function but also with looks, it may take you a little longer to install your sensors. Most people probably fall somewhere in between these two extremes. What I can tell you though, is that it is worth taking the extra time now to ensure minimal problems later. But ultimately, the choice is yours.

Each sensor includes double sided tape for those that want to do a quick install. The double sided tape is effective in holding the contacts in place and even mounting the sensor on the wall above the window or door jam. If you decide to just use the double sided tape for your install, you will want to make sure that you are applying it to a clean surface. The best way to insure this is to prep the surface by cleaning it with rubbing alcohol. If you live in a hot humid climate, you may want to reconsider installing the sensors with the included screws. One of our customers recounted a story to us of how their alarm was triggered because one of the sensor contacts fell off because they only used the double-sided tape and they did not have the air conditioning on so the temperature in their house reached the high 80’s… Again.. the choice is yours on which approach you want to take when installing your window/door sensors.

When installing the contacts, you want to make sure the little arrows are facing each other. In addition, you don’t want them to be more than a half inch apart. You may be able to go a little further in the distance between the contacts but it may have an adverse impact on the operation and effectiveness of your alarm.

And You Thought They Were Just For Windows & Doors!

Over the course of the years that we have been selling these alarm systems, we have heard from many customers that have thought outside of the box and have come up with some ingenious applications for these window/door sensors. Here are a few:

• Wired the sensor to a smoke alarm so that when the smoke alarm went off, it triggered the window/door sensor which activated the alarm.
• Put a sensor on a gun cabinet.
• Wired a sensor to a glass breakage detection device.
• Hooked up to a garage door (not a side one..the one you drive your car through)
• Put one on a fridge (this had to do with some weight watcher thing a couple was going through and one of them could not keep away from middle of the night snacks)
• Put it on a closet (apparently they had Christmas presents in there that they were keeping guard from their grand kids..)
• Wired to a temperature sensor or water sensor (water sensor was by the hot water heater in case it sprung a leak)

Visual Aids!

The following are some pictures of different installation jobs from over the years. Enjoy!

This is an example of how you can wire your sensors in a series and only use one sensor to cover multiple windows.

Simple Door Installation

Window Installation

Sliding Doors

Side Garage Door

Example of how NOT to install a door sensor. See the hinges? You never want to install a sensor on the hinged side of a door because the door has to be opened really wide before the sensor will be triggered.

Another Window Installation

Another Door Installation (Steel Door)

ok..let’s summarize once again.. You have picked the alarm system that is right for you and now you have successfully installed all of your Window/Door Sensors. So what is next you ask? Well, the next article in this series will be touching upon Motion Sensors. They are a great compliment to your window/door sensors and a must have for any alarm system. As always, we enjoy hearing from our readers. If you have additional installation tips that you would like to share, please feel free to do so below in comments.

Over the course of the next few weeks we will be providing a step-by-step installation guide on how to install a D.I.Y. home security alarm. Our intent is to be as thorough as possible and provide a great resource for our readers that can be utilized time and time again by those interested in protecting their home and valuables with a self-monitored security system. Our assumption is that you have already read our article: Professional vs. Self-Monitored Alarm and have chosen the path of a DIY Self-Monitored alarm. The instructions that we provide throughout this series of articles will be focused on the security systems listed below but you will find that our tips and tricks can be utilized with just about any DIY Home Security Alarm available on the market. In the end, it really does not matter where or what kind of security alarm that you get, the important thing is that you get a security system that you feel comfortable with and that it provides you with the peace of mind that you are seeking.

• $99 Basic Security System

• $199 Gold Series Home Security Solution Package

• $249 Platinum Series Home Security Solution Package

Evaluating Your Home And Deciding On The Right Alarm Package

Homes come in many shapes and sizes. Some are very large, some are very small. Some homes have multiple floors while others have only one. A home can also be a condo, an apartment, a lakeside cabin, or a mobile home. Regardless of what you call home, you will want to have a good understanding of all the access points and areas that you want to provide protection.

How Many Sensors Do I Need?

Typically, you can do some quick math and count how many windows and doors you have and immediately know how many sensors you are going to need. However, while this is the easiest approach to determining the size of the alarm you will need to invest in, it does not always provide an accurate account of what you really need. For instance, do you have a room that has multiple windows and/or doors? If so, you can probably get by with just installing a single motion sensor in that area of the house and not worry about putting a sensor on each window and door.  Also, does your house have multiple levels? If the answer is yes, then you can probably do without sensors on your second story windows. We do recommend that you think about putting a motion sensor at the top of the stairs pointing down to capture any potential intruders making their way up the stairs in the middle of the night. Another way to save on sensors or to expand the coverage provided by your sensors is to have one window sensor wired up to cover multiple windows. This usually works best with side-by-side windows. We will cover this more in depth when we get into the installation.

How Many Sirens Should I Have?

When it comes to sirens, we have always been told by our customers that the more the better. It really depends on the square footage of your house and how loud you want your alarm to be. The alarms that we provide all have a siren built into the security console and then they have additional sirens that you can plug into any standard outlet in your home. The additional sirens come in 2 sizes (Compact 80db & PowerHorn 115db). Regardless of the size you choose, they both have a similar effect in that they make a lot of noise and will be sure to wake anybody up that may be home and scare off any intruder that is trying to break in. Our personal recommendation is to have a siren on each level of the house. They should be placed in the hallways and the larger gathering spaces of your home (living room, dining room, family room, etc…). It is probably not a bad idea to put one in your garage as well. You can always start out with whatever your alarm package comes with and add more sirens down the road as necessary.

Should I Worry About Lamp Modules and Light Automation Units?

In most cases, the answer is yes. All of the DIY alarms that we provide have a light automation feature built into them. This allows you the opportunity to turn lights on or off at the push of a button. The benefit of this is that you will never have to enter a dark home again. These lamp modules also provide you with the ability to turn any incandescent light in your home into a dimmable light…again… at the push of a button. Lastly, any light that you have plugged into the security lamp module will be notified when the alarm is triggered and they will begin to flash at the same time your sirens are blaring. This is a really nice feature that draws attention to your home in case of a break-in.

Do I Want Keychain Remotes And How Many?

Keychain remotes that can turn your alarm on and off are very convenient. It makes simple work of activating your alarm on your way out the door or deactivating it before carrying groceries inside. The best part is that you don’t have to remember (or worry about forgetting) any codes to push into the security console. Our keychain remotes feature a panic button that will automatically trigger your alarm and they also offer the ability turn your lights on or off by remote control. You will want to get enough keychain remotes to provide one to everyone in your home and possibly even some of your closest relatives or neighbors. Our DIY alarm allows you to program up to 8 remotes. So if you need more than that you may have to figure out a buddy system to make sure everyone leaving the house has the ability to get back in without triggering the alarm.

OK.. lets summarize… by this point you have taken a good look at your home, you have decided what size alarm you need, you know where you want to place window/door sensors and motion sensors, and you know where you are going to put your sirens. You are making great progress and should feel good about all you have accomplished thus far. Give yourself a pat on the back or ask your spouse or a friend to do it for you.

Next article in this series will cover the installation process for window/door sensors. We will show you all kinds of tips and tricks to maximize the coverage provided by your window and door sensors. We will even be sure to include some pictures to help stimulate your need for visual aids. Sound like fun?

Here is the situation: You contracted with an alarm company or purchased your own self-monitored alarm system a year ago. When prompted to whether you want to splurge on a pet-sensitive motion sensor, you said no because you only had fish and if they are tripping off a motion sensor, you have other problems. You recently fell in love with the latest and greatest mixed breed of dog to hit the market and had to have one. You bring home your Labradoodle, Puggle, or other mixed breed of your choice. The next day you set your home alarm, leave for work, and within an hour you are being notified that your alarm is going off. You come to find out that your alarm is being set-off by your motion sensor which is now being triggered by your new best friend. So we have identified the problem. What is the solution?

1. Discontinue use of your alarm system and leave your home and new best friend to fend for themselves.
2. Disconnect your motion sensor and rely solely upon your window/door sensors. (Maybe your new four-legged buddy will intimidate anyone looking to break-in.)
3. Contact your alarm manufacturer and pay to upgrade your motion sensor to be pet-sensitive. If you have a contracted alarm provider, you may be able to negotiate with them on the price of the sensor but they may still charge you for installation and set-up.
4. Save some cash and do the following suggestions from SmartSecurityPeople.com

Motion sensors have a zone of reference and range. This zone of reference depicts what the range is of your motion sensor. The chart to the right reflects a motion sensor that has a 20ft reach with a left to right range of 90 degrees and an up and down range of 30 degrees. So what does this mean? Well, this information helps up to figure out how we can make the best use of your motion sensor while avoiding false alarms from Fido.  You have 2 solutions: You can either tilt your motion sensor up or you can put a piece of medical tape on the bottom half of the sensor. (We suggest medical tape only because it will blend in better with the color of your sensor.) The ultimate effect of either of these solutions is that you now have a motion sensor that only detects movement that occurs higher than 3 feet off of the floor. If your dog is taller than 3 feet, then you probably don’t need a security system! Keep in mind though, if your potential robbers are vertically challenged (short) they could avoid this set-up as well.

A question that comes to mind: Is this how other pet-immune motion sensors work? The answer is most probably no. The pet-immune motions sensors of today have circuitry built into them that only cause the alarm to be triggered if a large mass of movement is detected (usually anything under 40 lbs is ok). That is how these sensors differentiate between human movement and pet movement. If the sensor detects movement by an object larger than 40 lbs, it will trigger the alarm. Under 40lbs, no alarm.  As long as you are not being robbed by anorexic robbers or kindergartners, you should be just fine with this set-up.

Hope this information is helpful. Should you have any other questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us. we are always glad to help our readers at SmartSecurityPeople.com.